Which peg which string violin

To allow the player's fingers to easily slip between and grip the pegs, the angle of each peg-head needs to be adjusted see illustration. The angle can be altered by loosening and unwinding the peg, and allowing a bit more a millimeter or so or less of the string to protrude through the peg hole before winding.

As the strings stretch over the next few days, you will need to continue tuning them up. Synthetic and gut strings can be difficult to keep in tune during this time. Also, the tone quality of brand new strings is often somewhat harsh until they settle in. The period between installation and the settling of the strings, called the break-in time, is longer for synthetic and gut strings than for steel. Note that the practice of pulling on the strings to speed this stretching process is not recommended and may damage the core.

In spite of the expense and difficulties of using gut strings, I recommend that everyone try a set at least once, to get a feel for the real thing. They have a sound and feel unlike anything synthetic - softer, richer, more textured, and with more surface sound from the fingers.

Passione strings , from Pirastro, are an excellent set to try, since they are relatively stable and have the customary ball or loop ends.

If you choose to put on a set of gut strings, here are a few things to keep in mind. Students and their parents are frequently amazed by the difference in playability and tonality of their instruments when I install synthetic strings for the first time.

They often think incorrectly that this transformation of their instruments is due to my extraordinary skills as a craftsman. I don't argue. But, the plain fact is that the choice of strings makes a tremendous difference. Certainly, steel strings, particularly good quality steel strings like Prim are the best choice for certain instruments and certain styles of playing. But, if you do choose to switch from steel strings to synthetic, please note that advice, above, under A Few Notes About Gut Strings.

Inexpensive student instruments are frequently setup specifically for steel strings, and must be adjusted before synthetic strings can be installed. Nothing can replace regular and careful practice, when it comes to making beautiful music with your instrument. But, there is much to be said for having the right tools for any job. An aspiring woodworker won't succeed in making a beautiful table if given cheap or dull tools.

Neither will an aspiring violinist succeed in making beautiful music - no matter how diligently he or she practices - if given a poorly setup instrument. As a bare minimum, to learn the violin, please make sure that you or your aspiring young musician have the following:. Search site: Submit Search. How To Install Violin and Viola Strings If you've never changed violin strings before, find a professional to walk you through the process. Selecting Strings Check out our Guide to String for assistance in selecting the best type of strings for your instrument.

One String at a Time Change strings one at a time. Remove the Old String Loosen and unwind the tuning peg and remove the string.

Lubricate Tuning Peg Remove the peg from the peg box. Note: If you violin has geared pegs, lubrication will not be possible or necessary. Thread String Into Peg Visually locate the string hole drilled in the peg. Wind the String Start winding the string onto the peg. Remove Slack Place the string carefully in the appropriate slot of the nut and bridge.

Check Bridge Check that the bridge is straight. Bring Up To Pitch Loosen all fine tuners in the tailpiece until they are almost as loose as they will go, but not completely loose. Adjust Peg Angles Many players tune their violins left-handed, while bowing the strings. New Strings Will Stretch As the strings stretch over the next few days, you will need to continue tuning them up.

A Few Notes About Gut Strings In spite of the expense and difficulties of using gut strings, I recommend that everyone try a set at least once, to get a feel for the real thing. Gut strings are lower in tension than steel or synthetic strings.

They will, therefore, put less downward pressure on the violin and the soundpost. If you try gut strings and like them, you may choose to have your soundpost adjusted to compensate.

Gut strings are larger in diameter and more fragile than steel strings. When switching from steel to either gut or synthetic strings, consider having your instrument checked by a professional. And, at these prices, you really don't want to ruin your new strings before you even get them on your instrument! Watch closely, as you tune them up, for any pinching in the grooves, or damage to the strings as they pass over the nut.

Some gut strings come with a looped knot, rather than a ball end. The strings of the violin are usually tuned in perfect fifths. From lowest to highest, the pitches are: G 3 , D 4 , A 4 , and E 5. Alternate tunings are sometimes used - particularly in Bluegrass and other fiddling styles. Fine tuners are a fast and easy way to make small adjustments to the tension, and therefore the pitch, of the strings. Student instruments typically have fine tuners for all four strings. Professional instruments are setup with only one fine tuner, on the E string.

To adjust the pitch, simply turn the tuner dial - clockwise to raise the pitch, counter-clockwise to lower it righty tighty, lefty loosy. Eventually, the dial will be turned so far, in the clockwise direction, that it can no longer be tightened. When this happens, the dial must be loosened by turning counter-clockwise until the screw is high loose enough to be usable, and the string must be tightened using the tuning peg.

Similarly, if the dial is turned too far counter-clockwise, it will fall out. If this happens, simply put it back in and turn clockwise until it once again starts to tighten the string. Note: On some instruments, and with some tuners, the mechanism on the bottom of the fine tuner can damage the surface of the violin or cause a buzz when the tuners are made too tight when they are close to their clockwise limit. To check, simply look under the tuners and see how much clearance there is between them and the violin.

Tuning with the pegs can seem daunting, at first. But, it is a necessary skill for any player and not all that difficult to master. Briefly, here are the steps to follow when tuning the G or D strings. To tune the A and E strings, follow the same guidelines. But, note that these pegs turn in the opposite direction - clockwise to tighten the strings and counter-clockwise to loosen them.

A few other tips to keep in mind. Advanced players are expected to tune their violins with the left hand, while bowing with the right. The A string is tuned first, to a pitch fork, piano, or other reference. In the symphony hall, the entire orchestra will tune to a concert A, played by the oboe. Once the A string is matched to the reference note, the D string is tuned to a perfect fifth below the A.

Then, the G is tuned in similar fashion to the D. And, finally, the E string is tuned to a perfect fifth above the A. This system of tuning is also called relative tuning. There are a number of reasons for this. First, it is the only practical way for a large group of musicians, with different instruments, to quickly get in tune with each other.

The oboe can't be expected to give reference notes for each and every string that needs to be tuned - never mind the brass and woodwind sections.

Second, by bowing two strings together, rather than plucking, the trained ear can match the pitches with much greater precision. It's also faster to tune the pegs with the left hand, and professional instruments do not have fine tuners installed for the G, D, or A strings - they weigh down the tailpiece, adversely effecting the tone.

To begin with, you should verify that your pegs are well lubricated and installed correctly. If they do not turn easily, or if they slip easily, relative tuning will be difficult.

A common exercise to get the tension correct and let the strings settle is to firmly but gently pull the strings away from the neck of the violin, pulling out that slack to flatten the strings, and then tuning them again. It'll likely take several tunings before you can get the violin into a reliable tune. Stick with it and give the violin the appropriate amount of time to relax. Method 3. Experiment with different gauges. You can buy strings in a variety of thicknesses, tensions, and styles.

Experiment some with different sizes to get a sense of what sounds best with your particular style of playing and your wishes for your sound. Thicker strings put out more volume, resonating with a thicker vibration, while thinner strings tend to be brighter and sunnier. Try a set of each and see what you like. Consider steel core strings.

The most basic form of strings used on violins are made of steel alloy, often wrapped in nickel. The higher E string is usually plated with some other metal. They tend to have less stretch and durability than other strings, but are by far the cheapest and most widely available strings you can buy.

They're most recommended for beginners and if you're changing a string for the first time. Take the next step with rope core steel. With a warm sound a quick response, the next step up in the market is rope core steel, which is similar to steel core strings, but braided from more material, giving the player a bright, clear attack on the strings. These strings are commonly used by fiddle players.

Go old-school with gut strings. It doesn't get any more visceral than this: gut strings are made of the intestinal tissue of sheep or lambs. While somewhat gross, these strings feature an incomparably warm and lively sound. Gut strings are somewhat fussy, requiring lots of tuning adjustment. They're greatly affected by weather and temperature as well, making them more useful for very experienced players.

Combine with a traditional horse-hair bow and you'll be playing with the same basic ingredients as the old masters. Step into the future with synthetic strings.

Since playing on the colon of a dead animal isn't everyone's bag, manufacturers went about the business of replicating the sound and response of gut strings, but with a much less fussy and reliable sound. They're also somewhat expensive. Think about your high E. Most players will put the variety of string on the instrument, while some experienced players like to use particular strings in the E slot for tonal reasons.

Violin companies Hill and Westminster make E strings available separately from their respective sets and are popular inexpensive choices to experiment with. Why do my pegs not want to stay in place when trying to tighten the strings? I get the sound I want, let go of the peg, and then it turns back and loosens the string again. Try pushing the peg inward as you tighten the string. You can also use what is called "Hill peg compound," which can help in preventing slipping pegs.

Not Helpful 3 Helpful 5. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 3. My mom broke my violin and she isn't trying to put the strings on. How do I do it?

If you are not an expert or are unsure how, it is strongly recommended that you bring it to a violin shop where the staff will know how to place the strings correctly and properly for you. Because the strings are very delicate and if not placed properly may disrupt your playing or even your violin. If you want to know how to do it yourself, ask the staff at the violin shop or your teacher to demonstrate it to you step by step.

You may have to get a new violin, or try to use some violin glue to reattach the tailpiece. Not Helpful 4 Helpful 1. I brought a new violin, but when I tuned it, the E string broke. What should I do? If the violin string does not have a fine tuner, insert the ball or knotted end of the string through the tailpiece string hole, tug firmly to make sure the knot or ball is securely in the slot, and pull the violin string toward the bridge. You may need to hold the ball or knot in place with your finger while increasing the tension of the violin string as you turn the peg.

Slightly pull out the peg the violin string will go in until the peg hole is just inside of the pegbox. Thread the end of the violin string through the peg hole let the violin string slightly protrude , and evenly begin winding it.

Push the peg in as you're turning the violin string to keep the peg from slipping. Generally, fine tuners are used only on the E string, but beginning violinists often find it useful to have tuners for each violin string.

When replacing all of the violin strings, violinists often tune all of the strings to an approximate correct pitch, then do the fine tuning to get each pitch precisely in tune.